By Clay Fong
Camera Dining Critic
Considering it’s nearly synonymous with classic red sauce dishes, Boulder’s Gondolier Italian Eatery is probably more accurately pegged as more Italian-American than straight-up authentic Italian. But such categorization perhaps misses the point.
A local staple since 1960, the Gondolier is one of those rare spots where the experience is about more than just the food — it’s also about the memories. For some, this eatery might evoke fond recollections of all-you-can-eat family spaghetti diners, or perhaps even a first job or first date. For me, it was one of the few affordable, non-fast-food places where I could hang out with friends when I moved here to attend college in the ’90s.
The current Foothills and Baseline incarnation is less formal than its former Pearl Street digs of a couple of years back. Yet, the warm lighting, recycled wine box paneling and a calming earth tone decor give it a more upscale feel than its former ’90s location on 28th Street. But, perhaps most important, it still retains family friendly service and a hospitable atmosphere where folks can enjoy a Chianti while the little ones munch on pizza.
Someone who’s strayed away from Boulder for decades would doubtless feel a comfortable familiarity with the current bill of fare. Today’s menu is anchored by such old favorites as garlic knots, marinara sauce spaghetti and parmesans of both vegetarian and chicken strips. This isn’t to say things are trapped in the past, though, as there’s also gluten-free Mafaldine noodles and pizza crusts. More sophisticated selections include pork marsala and poached salmon, but on a recent dinner visit, my dinner companions and I made a beeline for the old-school standards.
First out of the gate was a $3 quartet of garlic knots — twisty rolls brushed with olive oil to a glossy sheen and dotted with fresh, minced garlic. Strangely addictive, this bread made for a fine foil to the condiment of warm marinara sauce. One of the Gondolier’s signature elements, this sauce retained the balance of sweet, spicy and tangy flavors that should be instantly familiar to longtime Boulderites.
Marinara also accompanied an $8 starter of fried calamari, as did what our server identified as pesto marinara. Not as assertive as versions loaded with garlic and basil, this green condiment possessed a lower key herbal profile, underscored by a citrusy zing and pungent capers. I favored the red sauce, although my dining companions were more enamored with the pesto variant. The squid itself tasted pleasantly briny with a properly giving texture, and the only room for improvement would have been a lighter hand with the batter.
A classic $14 chicken cacciatore, arriving atop a bed of risotto, could have benefited from a touch more seasoning. The risotto was closer to regular rice in texture, although it still held some al dente bite. Otherwise, the poultry possessed a slow-cooked, homestyle flavor with mellow onion, tomato and herbs rounding out the flavor of this traditional hunters’ stew.
Eggplant Parmesan, a $12 stalwart, arrived wrapped in baked mozzarella sauced with the signature mozzarella and sided with spaghetti. While the breading was crisp — I understand this is the final destination for unordered garlic knots — it wasn’t overly heavy. While the vegetable itself could have used a heavier infusion of garlicky flavor, the overall impression of this dish was that it was a textbook example of comforting Italian-American food.
Some pasta purists might scoff at the thick-gauge noodles that comprised half of an $11 combination spaghetti and ravioli plate. Yet this pasta’s substance nicely matched the hearty yet soothing marinara and the formidable $2.25 meatball add-on, which appeared to blend beef and pork. Pillowy ravioli arrived al dente and generously stuffed with creamy ricotta, comparing favorably to pasta from the Northern California Italian delis of my youth.
Desserts included a pleasingly creamy $6 slice of spumoni ice cream that would hold its own in San Francisco’s North Beach. A final reminder of the Gondolier’s considerable homespun charm, a $6 flourless chocolate torte, possessed the full-bore dark cocoa, almost coffee-like, tones of a home-prepared dessert, attractively garnished with almonds.
Sticking to the Gondolier’s signature items, such as the timeless spaghetti and Parmesans, is the best bet for dining here. These selections reflect familiar comfort that’s especially appealing on a cold winter night. The fare here might not be the fanciest Italian in town, but it might be the food most likely to evoke fond memories for years to come.
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Original article: http://www.dailycamera.com/lifestyles/ci_25182121/gondolier-italian-eatery-restaurant-review-new-boulder-location